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Walnut Creek Magazine

Santana Row’s Suspiro Inspires Sighs of Contentment

Aug 01, 2024 09:51AM ● By Fran Miller

Suspiro's Paella Vegetariana

Suspiro means “to sigh,” and that’s exactly what you’ll do upon tasting the Spanish/Peruvian dishes at this new Santana Row restaurant. Suspiro is imagined by the acclaimed minds behind neighboring Zazil and El Jardin, and San Francisco’s Colibri and  Il Parco, and is helmed by Mexico native Chef Yerika Muñoz Rodríguez, who has worked within some of the world’s most esteemed restaurants. 

Chef Yerika Muñoz Rodriguez

At Suspiro, Rodriguez (who is known for having opened Beverly Hills-based Mexican restaurant Cantina Frida, before becoming Executive Chef and General Manager at Astrid y Gaston in Mexico City) weaves the rich flavors of Spain and Peru into an exceptional menu featuring fresh seafood, grilled meats, and curated beverages that makes for a vibrant dining experience. She admits that Suspiro has reignited her passion for Peruvian and Spanish-influenced cuisine, and her heritage is evident in Suspiro’s rich paellas and tangy ceviches. 

Menu highlights include Bikini de Jamón con Queso (a ham and cheese sandwich with truffle oil) and Pulpo Asado con Patatas (grilled octopus with paprika mayo). The paella selection includes choices like Paella de Mariscos (seafood paella with shrimp, mussels, squid, and saffron aioli), Paella Vegetariana (vegetable paella with seasonal mushrooms, snow peas, carrots, and artichokes), Fideuà Negra (black pasta paella with shrimp and snow peas), and Paella Mixta (a mix of rice, pork ribs, and chicken). An elaborate charcuterie board featuring 11 meats and cheeses (including jamón ibérico, chorizo picante, and manchego) adds to the feast.

Ceviche Mixto

Pulpo Asado con Patatas

The multicultural influences that define Peruvian cuisine (including Incan, Nikkei, Criollo, and Chifa traditions) inform traditional dishes such as Incan Causa de Cangrejo Camarón (cold potato purée, crab meat, tempura shrimp, huancaína sauce). And in the Nikkei tradition, the blend of Japanese technique and Peruvian ingredients is found in ceviches such as the Ceviche Clasico (white fish, corn, sweet potato, leche de tigre). Classic Peruvian dishes include Ribeye y Tacu-Tacu (sliced Ribeye, chorillana sauce, tacu-tacu), introduced by Afro-Peruvians, and Lomo Saltado (beef tenderloin, onions, cilantro, tomatoes, potatoes, rice) using the Chinese stir-fry cooking technique.

"At Suspiro, quality reigns supreme,” says owner Eduardo Rallo. “Every bite and sip is a celebration of culinary history.”

The light and bright Suspiro dining room. Photo by Fran Miller

Seasoned mixologist Nick Varsic and wine expert David Rosoff have crafted Suspiro’s creative beverage program that includes Rosoff’s hand-picked wine list of global selections, and a menu of colorful staple drinks such as the Alpaca, El Alquimista and Tinto de Verano as well as rotating specials featuring seasonal ingredients. But, when dining on Peruvian cuisine, you really can’t go wrong with a traditional Pisco Sour, and Suspiro makes a great one.

Suspiro's softly illuminated speakeasy is a sultry hideout. Photo by Fran Miller

Finally, Suspiro is home to a secret speakeasy, but the sultry spot is losing its clandestine nature as the community discovers what’s behind that black curtain in the far corner. Where Suspiro’s main dining room is light and airy, with sliding doors that open to the nearly always ideal Mediterranean climate, the speakeasy is private and dimly lit. A corner DJ booth hints at weekend revelry, but during the week, this place has “intimate date night” written all over it.

Photos courtesy of Suspiro, except where noted

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